A Pocket-y Pattern
Dear Love Notions friends, it’s Chloe @no.idle.hands here on the blog with the very first Encore Skirt $5 Feature Friday! Encore has the Love Notions signature built-in side panel pocket which are roomy enough for just about anything and super fun to construct. It comes in 2 lengths and 4 views: Pencil, A-line, Full, and Pleated, all with a side zipper closure. Suitable for a wide range of fabrics, it is a wardrove staple piece to sew and wear throughout the seasons.
I made my first Encore in a delightful pink cheetah print viscose linen fabric and loved pairing it with different Love Notions tops for cute spring/summer outfits. As the weather cools down here, I needed an Encore skirt in fall/winter palette ASAP, preferably in a fancier fabric so I can wear it for the holiday season too. I found the perfect fabric – a crepe-backed satin fabric from the Minerva Exclusive range in earthy tones. It is medium to heavy in weight but maintains the fluid drape and scrumptious sheen of satin. I opted for the versatile knee length A-line style again for easy styling with all kinds of tops and footwears. In these photos I paired it with my olive green Lenox top in the same autumnal palette.
Knee-length A-Line view
What’s in your pocket?
My favorite thing about the Encore skirt is hands down the roomy built-in side panel pockets! I don’t know about you but one of the reasons I love wearing me-made garments so much is the quality of pockets. In my book, a perfect pocket checklist goes like this:
- At the right height for hands to naturally slide in
- Roomy enough for a smartphone to sit at the right angle inside
- Anchored to hold the weight of said smartphone without drooping or flopping
- Pocket edge does not stretch out over time and distort the shape of the garment
- Pocket fabric and shape does not show through the main fabric
- Pocket material stands against wear and tear
Now that’s a list most ready-to-wear just can’t measure up to! Fortunately, with a great pattern like Encore, you can check all these boxes to achieve the perfect pocket that makes you smile every time you slide your hands in! These built- pockets are securely anchored into the side seam with zero chance of flopping. They are super fun to construct and honestly, a little addictive!
Up your pocket game with lining and facing
With the perfect pocket as our goal and the Encore pattern as our blueprint, I’d like to show you a quick and easy hack I love using for my me-made pockets: Use a lining fabric instead of main fabric for the pocket bag, with an added facing in the main fabric for the pocket opening. This might sound like an extra step to go. But hear me out on several important reasons you might want to consider this hack:
- To Reduce Bulk
When using a thicker fabric, such as denim, corduroy and wool, using main fabric for the pocket bag creates additional bulk and weight. This could distort the seams and show through the style lines of the garment in unattractive ways. In the case of the Encore skirt, all the sides of the built-in panel pockets are sewn into the vertical seams, compounding the added bulk. The crepe backed satin is medium to heavy weight and the sheen on its surface accentuates any unevenness in the seams. So I opted to use a light weight cotton sateen for the pocket bag.
- To Avoid See-through
When using a lighter colored fabric, the pocket bag in main fabric can show through, especially when there’s a darker pattern on the light fabric. My crepe backed satin falls in this category. Although it seems pretty opaque to me, I’d rather not risk the see-through when the light hits it differently. A white cotton sateen pocket bag is just the ticket.
- To Strengthen Your Pocket
If your main fabric is the delicate type like viscose, silk and crepe, the wear and tear of a pocket bag might be better left to more sturdy fabrics like cotton sateen, quilting cotton and mid weight lining fabrics. Especially if you like to keep keys and coins in your pockets.
- To Save Main Fabric
In those cases when you need to play pattern Tetris to squeeze a garment out of limited yardage, having this hack up your sleeves can save the day. Those roomy pocket pieces take up more fabric than you might think!
Ok, you say, you’ve sold me on using a different fabric for the pocket bags. But why the added facing for the pocket opening? That’s because a garment moves with the body and there are inevitable peeks of the pocket opening. If you like a little contrast of your lining fabric showing, that’s all very well. Otherwise a small facing there in the main fabric helps blend things in.
Just a few pattern adjustments
Ok let’s dive in with our Encore skirt pocket upgrade! I am showing all the pattern pieces using a projector, and scaled them down for clearer photos. You can use printed pattern pieces the same way.
FIRST: Separate the pocket bag pattern piece
Take the pocket pattern piece of your view (mine is the A-line), and fold it along the horizontal line that is the bottom of the pocket. Trace a line along the top edge of the pocket.
Unfold the pattern piece, and draw a line 1.5” below the previously traced line. This is where the main fabric and pocket bag fabric will meet. The line is 1.5” below the pocket edge so that the lining fabric does not show. Cut along this new line.
Add 3/8” SA to both the upper and lower pieces. And now you have the two new pattern pieces. The top piece is the top of the side panel and will be cut with your main fabric. And the bottom is the pocket bag which will be in your lining fabric.
SECOND: Create the pocket facing
Take the original pocket piece of your view again, and draw a line 1.5” from the top edge. Cut along this line and you’ve got your facing – it will be cut in the main fabric and attached to the top edge of the pocket on the inside.
Sewing it all up!
It’s now time to sew up your new Encore skirt! Here’s all 3 new pattern pieces together. And here’s them all cut out, along with the Front Side piece. All these will be constructed together to form the side panel to the wearer’s left.
Pocket Sewing Steps
1.Sew the top (main fabric) and bottom (lining) pocket pieces right sides together along the pink line.
2. Open up the seam, press the SA to the lining side and understitch.
3. Serge one edge of your facing and lay it on top at the other end, and stitch to secure it to the pocket piece.
3. Serge one edge of your facing and lay it on top at the other end, and stitch to secure it to the pocket piece. Here’s the before and after.
Faux Piping Pocket Detail
As we are all about pockets today, I also added a faux piping detail to the pocket edge to accentuate the lovely slanted style lines. I used a grosgrain ribbon in brown, but you can easily use other trims like real piping, ric rac or twill tape in the same way.
a. First, place your trim along the top of the Front Side piece. The bottom edge of the ribbon should peak out about 1/8” out of the 3/8” seam allowance. Adjust the position of your trim according to its width. Baste the trim on.
b. Lay the assembled pocket piece on top of the front side piece, right sides together and stitch along the pocket edge with the 3/8” SA. The basted trim should be sandwiched in between.
c. Open up the seam and you should see about 1/8” of the trim exposed and the rest sewn into the seam. Press the SA toward the facing and understitch.
d. Fold the pocket right side out and press, making sure the trim is exposed evenly along the pocket edge. Now your side panel is complete with the upgraded pocket! Repeat with the other side panel and continue the rest of the skirt construction according to original instructions.
c. Open up the seam and you should see about 1/8” of the trim exposed and the rest sewn into the seam.
Press the SA toward the facing and understitch.
Get more mileage out of this method
Can’t get enough of the Encore style pocket? The newly released Pianoforte Jumper (aff link) shares the same amazing pocket design! If you are using a heavier weight fabric for your jumper, this hack is ideal for reducing bulk in those vertical seams. This pocket hack can also be adapted to other types of pockets, including inseam pockets and slash pockets, for both woven and knit fabrics.
I hope you enjoyed today’s blog. To see my new crepe backed satin Encore in action, find me on Instagram @no.idle.hands along with my Love Notions Ambassador promo code. Meanwhile, grab a copy of the Encore Skirt pattern for $5 TODAY ONLY, and enjoy sewing 😊
Until next time,
Chloe @no.idle.hands
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